Yesterday, Sister C and I went for a long walk along the top of the Cliffs of Moher. We parked the van up at the quiet end and walked our way along the top of the cliffs and into the main of Sunday morning by the main carpark on the other side. Sunday morning by the carpark is some experience – a throng of tourists. You can spot the Americans, because they’re usually wearing ridiculous “IRELAND” sweatshirts they got from Carroll’s Gift Shop in Dublin. You can spot the Canadians because they’re usually wearing clothing that announces them as Canadian, lest anyone confuse them with the Americans. The Chinese & Japanese are usually well dressed, and carrying a selfie stick. The Irish look tired and the Germans look unrealistically healthy.
C and I got a few quiet moments by Hag’s Head to have coffee from our flasks and I told C a little bit about what had actually been going on for the past year or so in my life. I told her about how moving to London had actually all played out, and the year-long aftermath. Once the immediate “flailing-in-the-water/what-the-fuck-is-happening” moment itself had passed last summer (in which I needed to reach out to close friends for support, and did frequently), it’s a story I’ve been increasingly reluctant to tell. It’s not a story you can un-tell.
After getting a few kilometres of sea air in and getting through the mass of tourists, Sinéad picked us up. I didn’t fancy the walk back along the cliffs behind all the tourists. We’d spotted 12 coaches in the carpark already, with another two on the way in as we waited for Sinéad. Fuck. That. We were dropped to where we had started the walk and picked up the van to head back down the coast.
Wetsuits on, a dip in the ocean by Clohane was just the ticket. A chance to wash away the pollution of London, and float on my back in the Atlantic and soak my sore neck and back muscles in the seawater. It was heaven, and it felt like a fitting bookend to this era of my life. My life in London had started in earnest with swimming alone in the sea by Långholmen one night last summer, and ended I suppose swimming in the sea here in Co. Clare. Neither of which are in London, I might add. Getting in the water has been an important ritual for me when any relationship or era of life has ended – my wedding ring ended up at the bottom of Walden Pond after swimming on a moonlight night, many moons ago for example – but you can’t give to the water what you’re not ready to have it take from you, and I am not sure I was ready to let go of much off the coast of Södermalm last August. In Clohane yesterday, I’d have let go of the lot and happily. The sea took what it took.
As I type, I’m in the kitchen of my parent’s house. Since the house was painted recently, it reminds me of my grandmother’s house – my father’s mother’s house about a half hour away. It’s the 1950s Ireland gloss white paint on the skirting board and the grey-ish white paint on the walls. There were no colour swatches or Pinterest boards involved here. It was painted to be plain, to sell. I hope-to-god that they sell the house this time. Everytime this house is painted for selling, it loses more of any sense of home. It loses more of our family character, and the memories of Saturday mornings us all sitting around the table with multiple pots of coffee and multiple guests dropping by feels more distant. I’m ready to let that go. No one could call the house ordinary, it looks like a cement ship rather than a house for starters and for years it was painted a deep blue. It was a place to hold court and entertain. Friends from my teenage years still talk fondly about Friday nights spent hanging out on the balcony, drinking, smoking and looking out on Galway Bay – but that’s a long time ago now. That history has been packed away and the house looks, well, dull. We painted it white on the advice of an estate agent to sell it over 10 years ago, and the entire family fell into a depression. The house didn’t even sell in the end.
Right now, my brother’s new puppy is running amok on the kitchen floor. The pup has no knowledge of Molly, it’s predecessor (for Molly was his dog too) or any of what went on here. Past is past, and it’s irrelevant to the pup. It is nice to have a bit of energy in the kitchen again though. It’s felt empty without Molly. On this trip home, I’ve not even thought about taking a walk out the Flaggy Shore, let alone attempted it. Molly was part of that ritual, and I didn’t feel the need to do it without her. That’s OK too.
I’m about to get an another plane to cross the Atlantic. Last night, I had that old “night before going back to America” feeling. I think that one is buried so deep in the Irish psyche that it’s hard to avoid. This morning all felt calm though, much less burdened by the past. Maybe the swim did the trick.